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Leaving Manchester on a chilly but sunny day, a couple of hours later I touched down in a much colder and snowy Reykjavík. After not having had much snowfall over the winter, the day I arrived had been immediately preceded by the heaviest snowfall so far that year. I collected my bags and hopped on the bus into the city to check into my overnight hotel near the domestic airport and meet up with the rest of my group.

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We then took a wander into town, past Hallgrímskirkja (the largest church in Iceland and the second tallest building in the country) to get fed and watered and then it was back to hotel for a relatively early night before our internal flight up to the far north the following morning.

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The winter weather unfortunately chose to conspire against us and we found ourselves with an unexpected extra day in the capital. The tiny airport in Ísafjörður, our destination in the remote Westfjords, is tucked into the side of a narrow fjord and when the wind is strong and in the wrong direction (as is often the case), planes can't take off or land. Fortunately, conditions on the following day were much more settled and so it was back to the domestic airport in Reykjavík and onto our little plane to take us on the next leg further north.
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Once we'd touched down in Ísafjörður we were met by our local fixer, guide, cook, boat owner and general superhuman Rúnar and after a swift lunch it was time to catch our boat charter for our 3 hour trip round the very top of Iceland to our home for the next week, Hornvik bay on the Hornstrandir nature reserve, where we'd be the only humans for around 50-plus miles in any direction. To be continued...
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